Tripods

There are so many tripods out there and it is sometimes difficult to know which is best for your Digislider or any other camera slider.  We recommend 2 tried and tested budget/affordable quality tripods...

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Miops Dongle picture

Sunrise/set time lapses are notoriously hard to get right, and bulb ramping devices can be expensive.  However, the Miops Dongle has finally made it affordable for most enthusiasts... 

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The blog summarises a range of the best time lapse and video pan and tilt heads and controllers that can be used on their own or with the Digislider or other sliders.

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Tapping technique to release stuck filter on lens

A simple tapping technique can solve the dreaded stuck filter issue some people may come across.  You don't want to unscrew it too furiously as you could damage the thread on your lovely lense, however...

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ND filter demonstration - Digislider Blog

Want to get rid of those tourists from your photos and time lapse work of popular landmarks, or capture movement that your camera doesn't allow when the conditions are too bright? This blog will go over the uses and advantages of ND filter. It also provides an evaluation of variable ND filters from a range of prices.

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Flume Mac app upload photos and videos from desktop to instagram

There aren't many apps that allow you to post both photos and videos with ease on the market, but Flume is one of the best.

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MicroSD integral memory 512gb

Another beast of an MicroSD card.  Check out the new 512gb class MicroSD from Integral Memory.

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PowerGXND filter

Claiming to be the world's first Variable Gradual ND (Neutral Density) Filter, the PowerGXND offer a continuous variable range between 0-5 stops over half of the lens. The lens can be...

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time lapse astrophotography

Rokinon/Samyang/Bower (same company) have some great lenses for astrophotography like:

14mm f/2.8 (Amazon US/UK links) - around $300/£300 depending on the mount

Samyang 14mm f2.8 lens

24mm f/1.4 (Amazon US/UK links) - around $500/£400 depending on the mount

Samyang 24mm f1.4 lens

They are affordable and have wide apertures to get as much light in as possible.  They also stay sharp with the aperture as wide as it gets both have very low levels of coma (comatic aberration).  They are available in 8-10 different mounts for numerous cameras so it is very likely that they will be compatibility probably won't be a problem.

Lonely Speak picture with 24mm f2.8 Samyang lens

The 24mm f/1.4 is considered one of the best night photography and astrophotography lens you can buy. "Excellently sharp, especially when stopped to f/2. Manual focus...fast, wide and shows very little aberration problems." - lonelyspeck.com/24mm

The 14mm f/2.8 is cheaper and one of the most affordable full frame nightscape lenses.  It's manual focus too, pretty big and heavy but the ultra-wide angle is perfect for sweeping landscapes. "It’s slow focus ring and inaccurate distance scale are minor quirks but a little bit of manual focusing practice with the lens will help most photographers adjust to its use. Given that most full-frame alternatives are at least $1000 more expensive, the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 is one of the best super-wide astrophotography and landscape lenses available for any interchangeable lens camera system. If you’re trying to decide on what lens you should buy for landscape astrophotography or Milky Way photos, stop right there and buy this lens first." - lonelyspeck.com/14mm

All in all, two great lenses, if you can afford it, the Rokinon/Samyang/Bower 24mm f/1.4 is the best choice for all-around usability as long as you get a good one because a few have decentering issues.  Buy it from Amazon and test it to make sure you have a good one using this quick decentering test.

Lonely Speak decentering problem with Samyang 24mm f1.4 lens

Lens Decentering: The boxes highlight the areas in the images below where you can see the apparent decentering of the first copy of the lens that I owned.

Lonely Speak close-up of decentering problem with Samyang 24mm f1.4 lens

100% crops showing differences in focus between the left and right sides of the frame. The left is blurry while the right is nice and sharp.

Source - lonelyspeak.com

Sunrise

This blog runs over a few different techniques on getting sunrise/sunset time lapse right.

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